BARBARESCO AND BAROLO: FROM THE EARTH TO THE GOBLET VIA A GRAPE OF NEBBIOLO
Not everyone knows that the inventor of what we now call 'Gastronomy' was a certain Anthelme Brillat-Savarin. To him is attributed the phrase: 'A meal without wine is like a
day without sunshine'. We cannot contradict his statement in any way, but we can certainly add that it depends on the quality of the wine we drink at the said meal.
Nowadays, it is certainly nothing new to speak of quality in the world of oenology; that set of parameters that not only lead to the 'magic' of the fermentation of grape juice into wine, but also allow the maximum expression, within a glass, of all the wisdom and experience contained in the history of winemaking, as well as the composition of a particular soil, a characteristic that makes each wine unique.
And it is precisely the soil that has made Barolo and Barbaresco two of the most appreciated and renowned wines, not only in Italy, but throughout the world. But let's go in order...
We are in the splendid setting of the Langhe, where food and wine reign supreme, amidst hazelnuts, white truffles and rows of Nebbiolo.
Nebbiolo which is the vine whose grapes give life to Barolo and Barbaresco, as well as other excellent wines such as Langhe Nebbiolo or Nebbiolo d'Alba.
A peculiarity of Nebbiolo is that it is one of the few red grapes in which floral scents prevail, a typical characteristic of white grapes.
The wines produced from this vine are very versatile and vary in lightness and persistence, so we find some that can be drunk as an aperitif and some very well structured ones that
can be paired with a good meat course.
Moving on to Barolo and Barbaresco we enter a very interesting world of oenological excellence.
First of all, the specifications allow Barolo to be produced in 14 countries and Barbaresco in just three (Neive, Barbaresco and Treiso).
We start, as mentioned above, from a wine made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, in both cases, then ageing takes place which, in the case of Barolo must be at least 38 months of which 18 in wooden barrels (62 months of which 18 in wood for the Barolo Riserva), in the case of Barbaresco, on the other hand, it must be at least 26 months of which 9 in wood (50 months for the
Barbaresco Riserva).
But if the starting base and the ageing method are the same, how do the two wines differ?
In addition to differences in ageing time, this is where the soil component comes into play. Despite the fact that the Barolo and Barbaresco areas are very close to each other, there are some peculiarities: the soil in the Barbaresco area is mainly made up of white marl (rocks composed of a clay fraction and
calcium carbonate) that make Barbaresco softer, elegant and easy-drinking.
North of the Barolo area, moving progressively southwards, the white marls give way to blue marls, which make Barolo more arrogant, structured and full-bodied.
This characteristic causes Barolo to change in body from commune to commune, becoming more and more structured as it moves southwards.
That said, both wines, being aged, are not light wines, on the contrary they are very structured, but comparing them, Barbaresco is less robust and more elegant and easy drinking.
Knowing the characteristics of these two wines, we can pair them with food: the Barbaresco, more mineral, is excellent with earthy foods based on artichokes, mushrooms, truffles or
asparagus. Barolo is at its best with long cooked main courses such as stews, braised meats, game dishes and other possibly fatty meats.
On the occasion of the Nitto ATP Tennis Finals, taking place in the Piedmontese capital from 13 to 20 November, several events have been organised in the city of Turin. One in particular, concerning the topic of this article: 'The Night of Barolo, Nebbiolo and Barbaresco', at the Centrale Nuvola Lavazza. The event will take place on Friday 18, from 7.30 pm. Each participating guest will have the pleasure of tasting up to ten glasses of these wines and talking directly with some fifteen important producers in the Langhe.
Fascinating is the world of wine. A millenary culture that has evolved over time, bringing with it ever new production characteristics, but always remaining well rooted to the soil, which distinguishes each grape variety and, consequently, wine. Reflecting on this serves us to understand a little more about the meaning of everything, everything has
its own why and a specific role in nature. Here, even a paltry stone has built a history, that of Barolo and Barbaresco, a world heritage of our small land: Piedmont.